by Aubry Rose

1. As one brilliant pilgrim put it, Spain is like ‘a post apocalyptic zombie zone.’ What I mean by that is the siesta exists and it is a very real thing, which is becoming exceedingly annoying when you are trying to stop for compeed at the pharmacy for blisters or get some nibbles after walking 25 km. The whole town literally shuts down. Even the dogs are asleep. The only life is the 72 year old woman smoking off the balcony in her house dress.

2. Cafe con leche has become our daily safe haven. AMAZING. I mean I’m talking heavenly drink. Two days ago we walked through two small towns along the way yearning for our morning coffee break, only to find out a bar didn’t exist in either. Needless to say, whoever we were praying for that day got some extra God snuggles.

3. Spaniards have perfected the art of the nasal voice. Just picture “Buen camino” said completely through the nose. I’m doing my best to imitate but it’s a struggle as I fear my Midwest background has killed my ability.

4. Spanish women can say the rosary in 7 minutes flat. I am probably exaggerating but not by much. We have witnessed a few rosaries in churches said by the few extremely old village citizens inhabiting the pews, and they probably think I have a jaw problem as I am so blown away by the pace. If Spanish rosary prayers were a race car, they’d be a fast one. If they were an animal, they’d be a cheetah. If they were a nickname, they’d be Quick Draw McGraw. It’s mind boggling.

As for the Camino, we are continuing forward, slowly and painfully, 166 km in. Tonight we are sleeping in Logroño at a very comfortable parochial albergue (the hidden jewels of the Camino). Ailments seem to attach themselves to our body, but every single one of them is worth it if it means one step closer to Santiago de Compostela, and one more prayer intention answered. Reminding ourselves daily to be grateful for this opportunity. Thank you, Lord, for this journey!